Five Key Gardening Jobs for December

The shortening days, coupled with poor weather, mean that you won’t be able to spend that much time in your garden in December. However, there are still a number of jobs that you should be thinking about before Christmas. Here, Madingley Mulch outline five of the most important ones.

This article is a three- to four-minute read.

 

Madingley Mulch – Garden Mulch Suppliers in Cambridge

At Madingley Mulch, we supply a range of outdoor gardening products, including soil conditioners and composts, as well as mulch. Visit our online shop to see the full range. You can also call us on 01954 212144 if you need any advice.

 

1. Move Items into the Greenhouse

Frost is one of a gardener’s worst enemies. Any potentially vulnerable plants should be moved into the greenhouse or any indoor location where there is some protection from the elements.

This especially applies to any potted plants; if they are in terracotta pots, then the pots themselves can crack in freezing weather. The alternative is to leave them outside but cover them in bubble wrap or something similar.

 

2. Discourage Any Pests

There may be one or two hardy pests which can still do some damage in December. There are a number of ways you can minimise the risk of any December damage without using any pesticides.

One way is to make sure that you have finished raking up any fallen leaves, particularly those in flower beds. Left untouched, these could harbour slugs and other pests, which could damage your plants.

Another approach is to encourage birds into your garden by hanging one or more feeders. Fat balls, sunflower seeds and peanuts will all provide valuable nutrients to ensure your feathered friends stay warm and healthy. While they are in your garden, the birds may also get rid of any overwintering pests (particularly if you put the feeders near any rose bushes).

 

3. Lay Down Some Mulch

It’s not too late to put down some mulch to provide your plants with some winter warmth. However, you shouldn’t do it too early – leave it until after the first few hard frosts, once the ground is cold or has lightly frozen (but the soil is moist). Applying the mulch too early can trap warmth in the soil and encourage plants to put out new growth, which can then be damaged by later hard freezes.

As well as deterring weeds and retaining moisture in the soil, the mulch will also improve the soil’s structure in time for the new growing season next year.

Our mulches can be found here, and our soils, conditioners and composts here. These include two products exclusive to Madingley Mulch – Denise’s Delight and Tony’s Tonic.

 

4. Prune Shrubs and Trees

There may still be a few trees and shrubs which will benefit from a December prune. These include free-standing fruit trees (particularly apples and pears) and trailing plants such as roses and wisteria.

Berried winter shrubs (which include hawthorn and honeysuckle, as well as holly and ivy) should also be cut back. Not only will this improve their overall health, but they should give you plenty of seasonal Christmas decorations for your home.

6. Get an Early Start on Growing for Next Year

Even though it’s December, you can still plant a few species this month. Broad beans and onions should survive the winter, although you should sow these indoors first and move them outside once the weather (and temperatures) improve. The same applies to flowers such as sweet peas and geraniums – grow them indoors first, then transplant them outdoors later.

 

Madingley Mulch – a One-Stop Shop for Your Outdoor Gardening Supplies

We are one of the leading garden mulch suppliers in the Cambridge area. However, Madingley Mulch can be a one-stop shop for all your gardening needs, not just soils, conditioners and composts. Whether you need sand pit sand in Suffolk, decorative stones in Hertfordshire or allotment supplies in Essex, we can help.

 

FAQS:

Q: Why is frost so damaging to plants?

If the temperature drops below freezing, any water inside plant cells freezes and expands, causing cell walls to rupture and tissues to die. This leads to physical damage like blackened leaves and mushy stems, and it can also prevent the plant from absorbing water and nutrients. Rapid thawing, especially in morning sun, and dry winds can worsen the damage. Laying down a protective layer of mulch should avoid most of these problems.

Q: How much mulch should I lay down?

A: You shouldn’t lay down too much, as it can form a barrier, preventing water from penetrating it, and it could also stop air from getting through, which worsens the condition of your plants and can cause root rot.

Our general advice is not to put down more than an inch of mulch on newly planted bushes or trees, and around three inches of mulch around flower beds and more established trees and shrubs. Take care to ensure the mulch doesn’t come directly into contact with the plant’s roots. For more information, read our previous blog post here.

We also have a mulch calculator on our website, which will help you work out how much you need to order.

Q: Does Madingley Mulch offer a delivery service?

Yes, we can deliver your products to your door. We operate a sliding scale of prices, depending on how far away you live from our base. The minimum order to qualify for delivery is £50. For more information, check out our deliveries page.

 

Top Tips on Preparing Your Garden Fencing for Winter

This article looks at the steps you should take to protect your fence panels over the colder, wetter winter months. These can be split into three main areas – cleaning them, carrying out any running repairs, and finally checking the surrounding area.

Madingley Mulch stock a number of products which can help ensure your fencing looks just as good in the spring as it did in the autumn.

Summer is definitely over – Storm Benjamin hit large parts of the UK in October, and winter can’t be too far away either. One of your garden items which could be most at risk from the vagaries of the British weather is your garden fencing.

Here, Madingley Mulch provide some top tips to ensure that your panels stay in good condition whatever the weather throws at them over the next few months.

 

Garden Fencing in Cambridge from Madingley Mulch

At Madingley Mulch, we supply a full range of garden fencing – including lap panels, picket fences and trellises – as well as a large selection of accessories which will help with any running repairs. All our fencing products can be found here.

 

Clean Everything

Pick a dry day or weekend with a good weather forecast. Remove dirt, moss, mildew, and grime from the panels, using either a stiff wire brush or a pressure washer on a gentle setting. For stubborn dirt, use a mild soap and water solution and scrub gently. Then let everything dry thoroughly – at least overnight.

Then you can apply any new sealant or varnish. You may need to apply a second coat after the first has dried, depending on the original condition of the fence. A good way to check if your fence needs sealing is to spray water on it; if the water sinks in, you still need another coat.

 

Carry Out Running Repairs

Look for any damaged, loose, or missing boards and repair or replace them. Check fence posts too, as these can be the most vulnerable part of the fencing, as they can easily rot or become unstable over time. If they are leaning, re-secure them and ensure they are firmly fixed in the ground. Finally, secure any loose brackets or screws where your panels are attached to the posts.

 

Clear the Surroundings

Sometimes it’s not just the fence that needs attention, but the area surrounding it. Remove any debris, such as leaves, which could build up at the base, as trapped moisture could damage the timber. Larger weeds should be uprooted because these could make the whole structure less stable over time, as well as being unsightly.

Some of the plants which you do want to encourage should also be pruned ahead of the winter months. Any branches on nearby shrubs or overhanging trees could easily fall off in a storm and damage the panels.

Another safety tip is to improve the drainage, as you don’t want water to pool around the fence posts. Dig a trench or French drain which slopes away from the fence line and will carry away any excess moisture into a soakaway or the street. The problem of moisture can also be lessened by adding gravel boards to your fence, as these will raise the panels clear of the soil.

Finally, you can improve the nearby soil’s overall structure and drainage by adding compost, mulch or other organic matter.

 

Fencing Products and Accessories from Madingley Mulch

At Madingley Mulch, we stock a range of items which can help with your fence maintenance. These include replacement items – not just the panels, but also the posts, post mix and Metclip brackets to fix panels and heavy-duty trellises to your posts. If you need to revarnish your panels, then we stock Cuprinol and Ronseal preservatives (including environmentally friendly options).

One of our specialities is soil conditioners, composts and mulch, which we provide to customers in Hertfordshire, Essex and Suffolk as well as our home county of Cambridgeshire. These will help improve your garden’s drainage and soil structure – the conditioners and composts can be found here, while the mulches are here.

We also have gravel boards, which will prevent rotting and greatly extend the life of your fencing. And, to help with any pruning of any surrounding plants, we also stock a range of garden tools from leading brands.

If you have any questions, call us on 01954 212144 or drop in at our base on the edge of Cambridge.

 

FAQS:

Q: Is it better to replace individual fence panels or entire sections? 

A: It is better to replace individual panels for minor damage, but replacing whole sections is best for widespread damage, failing posts, or older fences to ensure longevity and uniformity. Remember, short-term repairs won’t fix a long-term problem – it may be cheaper in the long run to replace entire sections.

 

Q: Whose responsibility is a fence when it’s shared with a neighbour’s property?

A: A shared fence, also known as a “party fence,” is a joint responsibility of both neighbours for maintenance, repair, and replacement. To determine this, check your property’s title deeds or title plan for a “T” or “H” mark on the boundary line. If the mark is on your side, you are responsible for that fence; if on the neighbour’s side, they are; if the mark is on both sides, it’s a shared fence.

If your deeds are unclear, try to reach a compromise with your neighbour, as they are jointly responsible.

If you are going to carry out some running repairs, it’s a good idea to let the neighbour know, even if it’s your responsibility – just as a courtesy.

 

Q: Can we deliver your garden fencing order if you don’t live that close to Cambridge?

A: Yes – but your order must be to the value of £50 or more. We operate a sliding scale of deliveries; the closer you live to our base, the cheaper it will be. For more details, see our deliveries page. If you live more than 40 miles away, call our shop staff for a tailored quotation.

 

Five Key Garden Lawn Jobs for Autumn

Many garden lawns may look the worse for wear during autumn, particularly if it’s been very hot over the summer months, or if it’s had a lot of use from children (and pets) playing on it.

Autumn is the best time to give your grass some love and affection before the onset of winter. Here, Madingley Mulch, who supply a range of turf, seed and associated products, identify some key jobs to carry out before autumn is over.

This article is a three-minute read.

However you define autumn, whether you go by the meteorological standard, which says it began on September 1, or the equinox, which says the season started on September 23 – there is no doubt that summer is officially over. For gardeners, it’s a critical time of the year when you should be tackling various essential tasks, particularly if you have a lawn of your own.

 

Madingley Mulch – A Leading Turf Supplier in Cambridge  

At Madingley Mulch, we can meet your needs when it comes to your lawn, wherever you live in East Anglia – whether you need lawn top dressing in Bedfordshire, lawn sand in Suffolk or garden lawn edging in Essex.

 

Why Autumn’s the Ideal Time to Work on Your Lawn

Autumn is the ideal time to take care of your lawn as the soil should still be relatively warm while the air temperature is a bit cooler. This promotes vigorous root growth and reduces stress on the grass. The season also brings natural moisture from increased rainfall and offers the last chance to address weeds and soil compaction before winter, setting the lawn up for a healthy recovery and strong performance in the spring.

 

1. Keep it Neat and Tidy

Even if it doesn’t need a final mow (see below) – or perhaps you are letting the grass grow long to encourage wildlife – it’s still worth giving it a final check. Remove any unwanted weeds and trim the edges with shears if you don’t want the grass invading any flower beds or growing over paths.

 

2. The Final Mow of the Year

When this should be is a subject of much debate because a lot will depend on your local weather. Generally speaking, this needs to be towards the end of autumn (i.e. October rather than September).

If the temperature has dropped to around 5°C (41F) consistently, then it’s time to get the mower out for the last time – certainly you should do it before any frost is forecast. Put the mower on a fairly high setting, if you can because this will enable stronger root growth next year.

 

3. Scarify and Aerate

Another way of ensuring your garden thrives is to scarify and aerate it. This should follow on from the last cut of the year. Scarifying removes surface thatch – a layer of dead grass, stems, roots and moss. This can be done with a rake (ideally a spring-tined one) or a mechanical scarifier.

Aerating involves punching small holes in the soil to prevent compaction and ensure that water and nutrients can get to the grass roots. This can be done with a garden fork (pictured), or, for larger lawns, a specialist machine.

 

4. Reseed…

If there are any bare patches on your lawn after you have cut, scarified and aerated it, then consider reseeding them. A light topdressing of topsoil or lawn dressing can help create a consistent moisture barrier and level the lawn.

If you do this, you’ll need to keep the seedlings moist for the first five or six weeks with regular watering (assuming it’s dry). It may be worth applying some autumn lawn feed, and it’s definitely worth keeping your fledgling grass clear of any debris, such as falling leaves.

 

5…or Relay

If your lawn has really suffered during the summer, then you could completely relay it. For more helpful advice on how to lay a lawn in autumn, read our previous blog post here.

Again the time of year – neither too hot nor too cold (or too wet) makes it the ideal time to carry out some running repairs (although the same applies to spring).

 

Madingley Mulch – a Turf Supplier in Cambridge

At Madingley Mulch, we supply high-quality turf, grown in East Anglia, for your garden or business premises. We stock it in 1m3 rolls. For more information follow this link or call us on 01954 212144.

We also have lawn top dressing, which we can deliver to customers in Bedfordshire, Suffolk and across East Anglia.

In addition, we stock a range of garden tools to help you on your way. You can also find Evergreen 4 in 1 (which will kill weeds while promoting healthy grass growth) and various types of grass seed in the associated products section of our online shop.

 

FAQS:

Can Madingley Mulch deliver to your door?

Yes, we can deliver your turf (or other products) directly to you – we operate a sliding scale of charges depending on how far you live away from our base on the edge of Cambridge. The minimum order needs to be £50; for turf to be delivered there has to be a minimum order of 20m2.

For more details, check out our deliveries page here.

What’s the best time of day to water your lawn?

You should water your lawn either early in the morning or late in the evening because this reduces evaporation caused by direct sunlight and heat, ensuring more water reaches the roots. A good soaking will also bring more benefit to the grass’s (or plants’) roots compared to a light sprinkling.

Should I apply lawn feed before or after aerating and scarifying?

It is best to do scarifying and aeration first, then apply the autumn lawn feed afterwards (and preferably before rainfall). That way, the soil is more receptive, and nutrients can reach the roots more effectively.

 

Which Size Gravel Is Best for Your Garden?

This blog looks at the differences between the various types of gravel and shingle which are commercially available throughout the UK. More specifically, it looks at the characteristics, advantages and usages of 10mm and 20mm gravel.

There’s also a brief mention of the decorative stones which are larger or smaller than these two mainstays of garden landscaping projects.

There are links to the various products offered by Madingley Mulch, including pebbles and cobbles as well as gravel and shingle.

(This article is a three-minute read)

 

Gravel is a feature of many British gardens.  It is a quick way for new-build property owners to cover up bare patches, or for use in specific landscaping projects. The bulk of commercial gravel is either sold in 10mm or 20mm sizes – and we can help you find the right size for your garden.

 

Gravel for Gardens from Cambridge-based Madingley Mulch

Unlike many other outlets, at Madingley Mulch we stock a full range gravel and shingle to suit all needs and tastes to suit your type of garden, whether it’s a traditional cottage, a modern new-build or a spacious family property.  They are a cost-effective way of infilling flower beds and are ideal for use with many water features.

 

Advantages and Uses of 10mm Gravel

Smaller-sized gravel will compact more naturally than larger stones. This means it will create a smoother, more comfortable surface for walking on, making it an excellent choice for paths and walkways. You can also use these smaller-sized stones to fill in the gaps between paving stones and patio slabs.

Many people say 10mm gravel also looks better aesthetically than the larger alternatives, as it offers a consistent appearance to the naked eye. Because it compacts well, you can use 10mm gravel as a form of mulch on your flower beds; unwanted weeds will find it difficult to force themselves through to the surface as there are very few gaps. This isn’t always the case with larger, irregularly shaped stones which don’t mesh together as naturally.

 

Advantages and Uses of 20mm Gravel

However, although it compacts well, 10mm gravel and shingle can still shift around, particularly in wind and rain. And there’s also the problem of the smaller-sized stones either getting stuck in the soles of your shoes and eventually ending up in places you don’t want them to go, such as inside the house or on the lawn.

These problems don’t apply to larger 20mm stones as they provide a much more stable surface and are generally too big to fit into foot soles. They are also ideal for driveways as well as areas with lots of heavy foot traffic – the stones won’t get stuck in tyre treads either.

The larger stones can also be used as a sub-base for various garden projects, including driveways, patios and paths, although it may need to be artificially compacted (with a compactor) to ensure it provides a sufficiently strong and stable surface.

And 20mm gravel, and other larger stones, have their own aesthetic appeal if you are looking for a more ‘rugged’ appearance for your garden. Some varieties of larger decorative stone also change colour over time or after periods of heavy rain, providing another point of interest.

 

Other Gravel Sizes

Many outlets also stock 6mm gravel and shingle (shingle is more likely than gravel to be naturally formed over time, usually via through erosion, such as through waves on a beach).

Even though it’s smaller than the 10mm option, it can still be used for paths and walkways; and it’s also good for certain specific projects, such as pipe bedding, as a soakaway, or in and around any garden water features. This is because 6mm options offer excellent drainage, whether the water is being artificially or naturally produced.

And some nurseries and stores offer 14mm decorative stones. Many people prefer these as they are small enough to walk on comfortably, but still large enough to offer the stability required.

 

10mm and 20mm Decorative Stone Options from Madingley Mulch

At Madingley Mulch we stock a variety of sizes of gravel for gardens in the Cambridge area, all of which you can buy from our shop.

These include:

• 6mm shingle in a variety of colours;
• Our basic 10mm gravel which is a versatile pea shingle;
• 14mm red granite, which changes colour when it’s wet, making it ideal for water features;
• And our 20mm golden gravel, which is one of our most popular varieties.
• Our full range can be seen here. You can order them directly via the links – but it you aren’t sure which type is best for you give us a call on 01954 212144 and we will be happy to help.

Remember we also offer even larger decorative stones in the form of pebbles and cobbles. Like shingle, these are naturally produced and are ideal for edging paths and borders, as their size naturally discourages people from walking on them. These can be up to 150mm in size.

 

FAQS:

Can Madingley Mulch deliver gravel to your door?

Yes, we can – we use a fleet of crane lorries to deliver products, which allows us place bulk bags over obstacles like hedges and walls and directly onto various surfaces such as driveways and paths.

What sizes do we deliver in?

Gravel is available for delivery in bulk bags, or in smaller, handy bags.

Where do we deliver to?

Madingley Mulch delivers to customers throughout East Anglia. So, whether you want a 20mm gravel bulk bag in Suffolk, a pea shingle bulk bag in Hertfordshire, or a 10mm gravel bulk bag in Bedfordshire, we can help.

We charge on a sliding scale, depending on the size of your order and how far we have to travel. For more details check out our deliveries page here.

 

Organic or Inorganic Mulch – Which is Best for Your Garden?

 

The beneficial properties of mulch are well known; however, there are plenty of choices when it comes to adding it to your flower beds or other parts of your garden. One of the principal decisions you will have to make is to choose between organic or inorganic varieties. Here, bark mulch suppliers Madingley Mulch, who serve customers in Essex, Suffolk and our home county of Cambridgeshire, look at the advantages both types offer.

 

The Types Defined

Organic mulch is defined as a layer of material derived from living or once-living organisms, that is spread on the surface of the soil. Sometimes known as biodegradeable mulch, it usually contains material such as well-rotted manure, bark, leaves, straw, pine needles and other composts.

Inorganic mulch is defined as any material applied to the soil surface that is not derived from living organisms and does not decompose (or does so extremely slowly) over time. Also known as non-biodegradeable mulch, this can include decorative stones (including rocks, cobbles and pebbles), plastics and geotextiles. At Madingley Mulch, we also stock decorative garden stones at our base on the outskirts of Cambridge.

 

Advantages of Organic Mulch

Organic mulch improves the structure of the soil – as they decompose, they release their nutrients into the ground. This is particularly important in most gardens in the east of England, as they are very likely to have a clay soil which doesn’t produce good growing conditions for many plants – it’s slow to drain and can easily become waterlogged.

Organic mulch also suppresses weeds by not allowing them to germinate, and helps the soil retain more moisture, which is important during long, hot dry spells, like we are experiencing at the moment.

It’s comparatively lightweight (particularly in relation to some of the bigger decorative stones) and easy to work with.

 

 

Advantages of Inorganic Mulch

Inorganic mulch has many of the same properties as its organic counterpart in that it will suppress weeds, and also help the ground retain more moisture (although it won’t improve the soil’s structure, and, in the case of some plastic coverings, may actually harm the soil).

It is low-maintenance and won’t need replacing as often compared to organic varieties, which ideally should be replaced or topped up at least once a year to ensure the maximum amount of nutrients are released into the soil.

You can still grow plants in non-biodegradeable mulch – such as Mediterranean varieties like rosemary and lavender, and succulents such as sedum; none of them will need watering very much.

Inorganic mulch is also extremely versatile – not only can decorative stones be used in flower beds, but on pathways (pictured) and driveways as well, where you don’t want weeds sticking through. You will know when you have visitors because of the noise it makes underfoot. Additionally, decorative stones can be used to ‘level off’ parts of the garden – for example, by creating a rockery.

It’s also aesthetically pleasing – the larger stones, pebbles and cobbles are quite striking and really make your garden stand out.

 

Organic and Inorganic Mulches from Madingley Mulch

If you need mulch for a conventional flower bed, then organic types are probably better. We stock plenty of organic mulches at Madingley Mulch – including our barks and mulches, while our soils, conditioners and composts have much the same effect. These include our exclusive products Denise’s Delight and Tony’s Tonic.

However, if your garden gets a lot of sun, you don’t have much time (or money) to devote to it, or need a new driveway or pathway, then inorganic mulch has plenty of advantages too. Click here to see our range of decorative stones, pebbles and cobbles.

All our decorative aggregates are available in half cubic metre bulk bags with many available in smaller quantities. They can also be delivered as loose loads to homes, building sites or commercial premises by arrangement. You can find more details of our delivery arrangements here.

 

The Advantages of Weed Suppressing Membranes

 

Although weeds can simply be described as ‘a plant growing in the wrong place’, there is no doubt that they are the bane of many gardeners’ lives. One recent survey showed that almost half of all gardeners wished they spent less time removing these unwanted plants.

Here, Madingley Mulch, who stock weed suppressing membranes at our base on the edge of Cambridge. look at why this product is an excellent way of solving any weed problems you have in your garden.

 

They Stunt Weeds’ Growth

Most weed-suppressing membranes are made from a sturdy, close-meshed fabric. This discourages weeds by blocking out the light – like any plant, weeds need sunlight to photosynthesise and grow.

The material is strong enough to prevent any weeds from pushing through, and it should resist any attempt by animals (such as pets) or birds to damage it as well. So laying down a membrane will save you a lot of hard labour in the long run – and give you more time to concentrate on other aspects of your garden, such as planting and watering, or just to enjoy it without noticing any weeds.

 

They Don’t Harm the Soil

It can be tempting to spray a weedkiller or other artificial chemical aid onto the soil rather than lay a membrane – it’s quick and convenient, after all. The problem with this is that it can damage the plants you want to protect, as well as the weeds you are targeting. Weedkillers can also adversely affect the nutrients in the soil.

Membranes, on the other hand, are a natural solution which doesn’t have as many unwanted side-effects. They are also porous enough to allow water through, so you don’t have to worry about waterlogging even if there’s a prolonged wet spell.

However, membranes do still act as a barrier to any soil, adversely affecting its organic structure. You may need to water your plants more frequently, and it’s usually a good idea to lay a mulch on top of it to ensure the ground remains healthy and has a good mix of organic nutrients.

 

They Are Versatile

You can use membranes in a number of locations, not just on a flower bed. For instance, it can go underneath decorative stones or pebbles as well as soil – it will still stop the weeds getting through.

They are also suitable for use below ground as part of a sub-base for patios or other building works, and for general ground stabilisation.

 

How to Lay Your Membrane

If you are going to put down a membrane, the first thing you should do is clear the area where you are going to lay it – and yes, this does mean weeding the area (hopefully for the last time in a while).

Then level the area; use a garden roller if you have one, then rake the surface through. If the surface is at all uneven, it will increase the chances of the membrane being punctured. Measure and cut your membrane to size, allowing for an overlap of around 10 cm (4 ins) per sheet.

Fix it down with pegs, hooks or nails (it’s best to do this when it’s not too windy). Finally, trim off any excess fabric, then cover it over either with mulch, decorative stones, pebbles or plants.

 

Weed Suppressing Membranes in Cambridge from Madingley Mulch

At Madingley Mulch, we stock Groundtex, a heavy-duty membrane (pictured) which should deter the strongest of weeds, as well as fixings to help keep it secure.

We are also a leading garden mulch supplier, with customers in Hertfordshire, Bedfordshire, Essex, and Suffolk, as well as our home county of Cambridgeshire. To check out our current range, follow this link. If you aren’t sure how much you need for your project, then we have a calculator on our site.

And if it’s a big order, then we can always deliver it to you. We are operating a sliding scale of charges, so the closer you live to our Cambridgeshire base, the less you will pay. The minimum order value to qualify for delivery is £50. For more details, check out our deliveries page here.

Top Trends from the 2025 RHS Chelsea Flower Show

The flagship event in the UK’s gardening calendar took place at the end of last month – the Royal Horticultural Society’s Chelsea Flower Show. Here, Madingley Mulch, who stock soil conditioners and composts for gardeners in Hertfordshire, Cambridgeshire and across East Anglia, look at some of the key trends in garden design and plant choice resulting from the show.

 

Technology

One of the most notable, f trends this year was the increased use of modern technology. For example, in the Avanade Intelligent Garden, AI sensors were placed on trees, and these relayed when the plants needed attention. Via a web-based app, visitors could have a ‘conversation’ with a tree to learn about its care and take appropriate action, such as giving it more (or less) water.

The garden also kept track of the number of pollinators which visited the plants, via a camera inside a wooden bird house. These innovative approaches won its designers Tom Massey and Je Ahn the award for Best Construction (Show Garden).

 

Sustainability

The idea that gardens should be as sustainable as possible remains a key trend. This year, The Pathway Garden, which was created by the homeless and health inclusion charity of the same name, used a variety of upcycled materials, including a bench made from a fallen tree and a mycelium wall. (Mycelium is a fungus which supports and sustains healthy woodland systems by sharing nutrients and forming networks within the root systems of plants).

This approach helped the garden’s designers, Allon Hoskin and Robert Beaudin, win the RHS’s Environmental Innovation award.

And The Hospice UK Garden of Compassion featured artisan-crafted elements from reclaimed and sustainable materials, which were sourced locally.

 

Water Preservation

Given that the UK has had one of the driest springs on record, it was appropriate that many entries featured drought-resistant plants, or they came up with innovative ways to preserve water.

For instance, the Hospitalfield Garden (inspired by the Scottish arts venue of the same name) had a strong Mediterranean feel. It included a sand dune and plenty of plants that can thrive without much water (including geraniums and euphorbias). This helped the designers win a Silver Gilt Medal.

And, The Killik & Co Save For a Rainy Day Garden included a steel water tank on the rear boundary wall, which collected  runoff rainwater. A pergola, constructed with cantilevered troughs suspended in a stone arch, also captured rainwater and directed it to a water feature.

 

 

In the Pink (and Purple and Yellow)

The show’s Plant of the Year was the Philadelphus petite perfumed pink – which is a mixture of dark and pale pinks, and because it is so compact, it can be grown in quite small gardens.

There were plenty of vivid colours throughout the show, often paired with paler plants. Purple and yellow were particularly prominent, with lilac geraniums (pictured), irises, poppies and primulas mixed together. The Songbird Survival Garden and the Avanade garden both made good use of this colour combination.

 

Soil Conditioners in Hertfordshire from Madingley Mulch

If you feel suitably inspired by the designs, then Madingley Mulch should be able to help. We stock a variety of garden design materials, including fencing, paving, and turf – for more details, check out our online shop.

And whatever plants you want to grow, we can help there too, even though the clay soil in the East of England isn’t ideal for many flowers and shrubs. Our range of soil conditioners and composts should improve the structure and fertility of your beds – in particular Denise’s Delight and Tony’s Tonic. Both of these include manure and a mix of other plant nutrients, including Black Fen soil, and are exclusively available at our base on the outskirts of Cambridge.

And if you are interested in redesigning your outdoor space, we have plenty of sleepers and log rolls which can help fashion a number of eye-catching garden features – check out our associated products page.

Why are Bark Chippings so Good for Your Garden?

 

Bark-based mulch should be an essential tool for any gardener, wherever you live and whatever types of plants you want to grow. Here Madingley Mulch, who supply garden bark chips from our base near Cambridge, explain how they work, and the advantages they offer.

 

They Improve Soil Structure

Bark chips are classified as a biodegradable mulch that can be waste products from commercial enterprises such as sawmills, or they can be purpose-made for gardeners. The chips break down gradually over time, releasing nutrients into the soil. These nutrients include nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, all of which aid plant growth.

To get the full benefit, bark chippings should be replaced every few months once they have fully rotted down.

 

They Discourage Weeds

Another benefit of bark chips is the fact that they can deter weeds. This is because a layer of bark mulch will block out the sunlight which is needed to germinate and grow weed seeds. So you will be saving time by not having to uproot all those unwanted garden invaders.

 

They Cut Down on Watering

Bark chip mulch is a timesaver in another way as well – it helps you cut down on watering. This is particularly useful if we have a prolonged dry spell, as we are having at the moment. This is again because it blocks out direct sunlight from the soil, this time reducing evaporation and helping your flower beds or lawn retain moisture.

Once you have added bark chippings to the soil, you may need to apply extra water to reach the roots of the plants beneath; however, in the longer term the mulch will also help rain to soak into the soil, and less water will evaporate, so you should find you need to water less frequently.

 

They are Extremely Versatile

You don’t need to use bark chips solely in your flowerbeds. It is such a versatile material that you can use it in a variety of locations, including garden paths. You can also use it on slopes which aren’t suitable for any other uses, and where it’s difficult to grow anything.

It also makes a good landing pad if you have created a children’s play area in your garden; special play area bark chips will help cushion any landings, planned or unplanned, if your child falls from a height.

 

They Look Good

Bark chippings will also improve the appearance of your garden. The rich dark colours will make your flower beds stand out. This is also true of non-biodegradable mulches such as decorative stones, pebbles or gravel – however, while the stones will also discourage weeds and cut down on your watering, they won’t improve the structure of your soil.

 

Applying Your Bark Chip Mulch

Make sure you weed the flower bed (or pathway, or wherever you want to lay it down) thoroughly. Ideally, the bark chips should be laid down on moist soil rather than hard earth (that is, during a hot dry spell). Equally, you should avoid laying them down when the temperatures have plummeted and there may be a risk of frost.

According to the Royal Horticultural Society, the bark should be between 2-3ins thick and not spread right up against any plants. If you are using it around larger plants such as shrubs or trees the mulch should extend to the radius of the canopy.

 

Garden Bark Chips in Cambridge from Madingley Mulch

At Madingley Mulch, we carry many different types of bark mulch – from composted bark, to mini-bark (for pots and smaller beds) and Premium bark. You can even buy special play area bark from us, which is sufficiently absorbent to help avoid any problems with falls and trips.

If you’d prefer a non-biodegradable product, then our range of decorative garden stones – which we supply to customers in Suffolk, Essex, and many other parts of East Anglia –  can be found here.  Not mentioned what you need? Check our full selection here.

If you aren’t sure which type is best for you, give us a call on 01954 212144 or email us at shop@mulch.co.uk.

 

Top Tips for Looking After Fruit Trees

Have you thought of planting your own fruit trees? It is one of the UK’s growth industries, in every sense of the word. The need for more sustainable gardens, and the chance to cut your own food bills, means that increasing numbers of people are ‘growing their own’.

Madingley Mulch stock a variety of soil conditioners and composts for gardeners in Cambridge and across East Anglia. Here are our top tips for planting out your own fruit trees, particularly if you have a small garden and only have space for one or two trees, rather than a whole orchard.

 

Don’t Plant Too Low – or Too High

Frost is the single biggest problem for fruit trees. Cold air is heavy and slides downhill, so keep any trees out of dips, valleys, hollows and sheltered flat ground. Because cold air displaces warmer air, the warmest spots at night tend to be 100-300 feet above sea level on a slope away from the prevailing wind. Equally, don’t plant your tree or trees on top of a slope because this could make them more exposed to wind and other bad weather, preventing pollination of the fruit and, in worst cases, causing structural damage.

The best place to plant – particularly for grapes, peaches, nectarines and apricots – is usually facing south to south-west on relatively level ground. Some fruit, such as gooseberries, redcurrants and whitecurrants, can tolerate being grown in north- or east-facing spots.

 

Wait for Your Fruit

Don’t expect instant fruit for your dining table, as you may have to wait a while. This is because you want the tree to develop a strong network of roots and branches so it can produce a regular supply of high-quality fruit.

In the case of apples, it’s usually three years, and in the case of plums, cherries and pears, it tends to be four. You may also find that if you have a particularly good harvest one year, it won’t be as good the following year, while the tree recovers.

 

Prune Them

You should always be on the lookout for any dead wood, branches or growth on your plants. Cutting this off at any time of year, as this will help promote growth further down the line.

The best time to have a major structural cutback is in the autumn or early winter as the tree will be dormant, but it won’t be freezing, so the remainder of the plant won’t be damaged by frost.

 

Protect Them from Pests

Some trees that suffer from scab diseases are best controlled by vigorous pruning of infected areas. Pellets containing metaldehyde or ferric phosphate, sprinkled on the soil, can deter slugs and snails, and cloches and fleeces will also protect your fruit from hungry pests. With rabbits, you may have to consider wire mesh or netting, or fences if you have a particularly serious problem.

 

Mulch Them

The worst soil is potter’s clay in a low-lying area that is underwater all winter and brick hard all summer – and, sadly, that is what most of the soil is like in our immediate area and across the East of England.

Fruit tree roots need to breathe and have access to water to help swell their fruit. Good soil texture helps moisture retention (but you may need to water them anyway, particularly in the early stages). Your trees will also benefit from organic matter with plenty of well-rotted manure and leaf mould, so using a mulch will help conserve moisture in summer and stop weeds growing up and around your trunks or stems.

At Madingley Mulch, we can give nature a helping hand with a variety of soil conditioners and composts that we stock. These include Denise’s Delight and Tony’s Tonic, both of which are exclusive to us.

 

Soil Conditioners in Cambridge from Madingley Mulch

As well as our soil conditioners and composts, we also stock a variety of garden tools which can help with any digging and pruning which you might need to do.

If you need any outdoor gardening supplies, then you can order them from our online shop and you can also visit our base on the edge of Cambridge, where we will be happy to offer advice too.

Top Tips for Creating the Ideal Driveway

Driveways are an essential part of any modern home; they add value to it, as well as offer convenience and security to car owners. Here, Madingley Mulch, who supply driveway stones (and a host of other essentials) from our base near Cambridge have provided some top tips to ensure that the whole process is trouble-free.

 

Check with Local Planners

Depending on what type of driveway you are creating, you may need planning permission. This depends on access (that is, if it links directly onto a public highway), what materials you are using, and how big it is.

If it’s impermeable (rain doesn’t soak through) then you may also need to factor in the cost of a planning application. The idea behind this is to cut down the risk of flooding in an area. Impermeable materials include concrete, asphalt, and porcelain paving slabs.

However, if you are using permeable materials including gravel or other decorative aggregates, or some natural stones such as Indian sandstone, you may not need permission as the water should soak away naturally.

Talk to us or your local council about it as you don’t want to get into trouble if you don’t follow the rules.

 

Mark the Area Out

Wooden stakes and a string line will help when it comes to measuring out the area, or you could use a white spray if you are digging up some grass. When doing so, make sure you leave enough room for all the vehicles which are likely to use it (including passing spaces if required). If the driveway needs to be big enough to accommodate several vehicles, you might need professional help as there will be a lot of physical work involved.

 

Dig Out the Area

A spade or shovel to dig out the topsoil should be enough if the drive is for a single vehicle. However, an excavator may be necessary if it’s anything larger. You probably need to go down to 250mm deep if it’s going to be a solid driveway, or 200mm deep if you are going to lay decorative stones on top.

Either way, you will need enough depth to lay a sub-base, which is going to take the weight of your vehicle or vehicles.

 

Install Your Sub-Base

Type 1 stones are the best for this because of their load-bearing qualities. It will also be a good idea to break it all up and compact it with a plate compacter or whacker plate – it’s probably worth hiring this rather than buying one outright. In this case, make sure you invest in PPE – goggles, hardwearing gloves, ear protectors – while you use it.

 

Protect it Against Weeds

If your driveway is porous, it can easily be damaged by weeds growing through (apart from any structural problems, it looks unsightly). Therefore, consider laying down a weed-suppressing membrane which will stop weeds from growing up, but will still allow rain and moisture to trickle through.

 

 

Add Your Top Layer

Gravel or decorative stones (such as our 10mm gravel, above) are much easier to lay. This is because you can just pour them onto the top and rake them out to make them even. It’s also a good idea to give them a rinse with a garden hose to stabilise them and get rid of any dust and debris.

If it’s a concrete pour, you will have to make sure it’s evenly spread over the whole area as well as laying out wooden forms so the concrete doesn’t spill over into other parts of the garden. You will also have to wait for the concrete to set and be ‘cured’ to ensure it reaches maximum strength before you put any vehicles on it – this could take a couple of weeks.

If your driveway consists of paving slabs, it’s a good idea to wet their undersides before starting. Tap them into place with a rubber mallet to avoid cracking the slabs; and use a spirit level regularly to ensure the whole surface is even. The slabs should also be sealed – either with sand or a manufacturer’s special sealant or compound.

 

Don’t Forget to Edge It

Every driveway looks much neater and tidier if it is clearly defined – particularly if it’s with loose gravel or decorative stones, as you don’t want any gravel spilling out.

So consider laying down some decorative or formal edging which will keep the stones in place. This is because some smaller stones can easily be picked up by the soles of your footwear and end up where they aren’t wanted, such as on the lawn or in your home.

 

Driveway Stones in Cambridge from Madingley Mulch

At Madingley Mulch, we have all the ingredients you need for your driveway. These include:

• MOT Type 1 stones for your sub-base
• a range of paving slabs – some of which will be suitable for use as driveways (check with us if you aren’t sure)
• and if you’d rather your drive contained gravel or decorative stones, then check out our selection here – again, we can tell you which ones will best meet your needs.

We also stock driveway membranes at our base near Cambridge – these will help those unwanted plants from spoiling the look of your new drive, as well as decorative edging which can be used as a border for driveways as well as flower beds.

Lastly, if you want to make your driveway more sustainable, check out our previous blog post here. And, if you have any questions, you can always call us on 01954 212144.

Soil Types in the UK – a Handy Guide

 

The UK enjoys some of the most variable soil conditions in the world. The varied climate, plus the way the ground developed millions of years ago, mean that there are many different types of earth – which can produce very different growing conditions for gardeners across the country.

Here Madingley Mulch identify the six principal soil varieties, what plants grow well in which type, and how we can help make your soil more fertile thanks to the range of soil conditioners and improvers we stock at our base on the outskirts of Cambridge.

 

Chalky Soil

Chalk soils have a high alkaline content and may      contain stones (or flints). In the UK these soil varieties are mainly found in areas with high deposits of calcium or limestone, such as the South Downs, the Yorkshire Dales, and the Chiltern Hills – not usually the East of England. They account for just 5% of all UK soil.

They are also very free draining and difficult to keep fertile. This means it may be better to stick to plants which thrive in this sort of earth – such as lavendula, geraniums and clematis – rather than trying to improve the soil.

 

Loam Soil

This is a fertile soil which is made up of organic matter mixed with clay, sand and silt. It is possible to have variations – for example, a sandy loam soil has higher proportions of sand, while a clay loam has more clay.

Loam soil is fertile, contains a lot of organic matter which provides essential nutrients to plants, promoting healthy growth and development. Additionally, loam soil has a balanced pH level, which further supports nutrient availability. It also promotes healthy root growth, is easy to work with, and is less likely to suffer long-term damage through high winds and storms – it’s a balanced soil where all the particles knit together well.

It is good for growing most plants, including vegetables and fruit trees – although sadly it’s not that common in Cambridgeshire and across East Anglia, even though it’s found in around a third of all the UK’s gardens.

 

Sandy Soil

This type of soil is found in around a fifth of the UK, and mainly in coastal areas. It should fall through your fingers easily and will also drain quickly after rain or watering. However, because it doesn’t retain moisture very well, you are best to opt for drought-tolerant plants (geraniums, buddleija, conifers and some fruit and vegetables) – all of these will need very little watering once they become established.

The other option is to improve the soil – organic matter such as leaf mould or tree bark will increase the alkaline content of the soil (it’s usually very acidic to start with), which will improve the growing conditions.

 

Silt Soil

Silt soils account for around 15% of the UK’s total, and they are mainly found in valleys and lowlands. Like sandy soils, they are quite light and can easily be damaged by heavy wind and rain.

You can either compact the soil by stepping on it or using a hand or machine tool; the other solution is to grow something in it. The best plants to grow in this type of ground are trees such as willow, birch and cypress, and most fruit and vegetables, if the drainage is good enough.

 

Peat Soil

This is found primarily in Scotland and the North and like chalk, is found in around 5% of the UK’s gardens. It is acidic, contains high levels of organic matter, and is very good at retaining moisture. Plants which grow well in this type of earth include rhododendrons, heathers and azaleas.

 

Clay Soil

Most soils in the East of England, including the Cambridge area, and around a quarter of the UK as a whole, are heavy in clay – usually at too high of a concentration to be considered a clay loam. Clay-heavy soil retains water and nutrients very well – in fact almost too well, as it’s slow to drain and prone to becoming waterlogged.

The best plants you can grow in it (without any artificial assistance) include roses, pears, plums and other similar flowering plants. Fortunately, though help is at hand – in the form of a variety of soil conditioners and improvers we stock at Madingley Mulch.

 

Checking Your Soil Type

You can buy a testing kit which will determine whether your soil is acidic, alkaline or neutral (and so which of the above categories it is likely to belong to). You can also do a ‘squeeze test’ – roll some moist soil into your hand and see how it behaves.

If it’s a clay soil, for instance, then it will form a sticky ball which will hold its shape. Sandy soil crumbles quickly and will feel gritty; silt soil will form a smooth ball and will crumble apart under any sort of force.

 

Soil Conditioners in Cambridge from Madingley Mulch

We stock 6mm horticultural grit, which will help break any clay soil down. Our spent mushroom compost and our two exclusive products, Tony’s Tonic and Denise’s Delight, will all help as they add valuable nutrients to the soil. For our full range of soil conditioners and improvers, click here.

And if you want to grow grass on top of your soil, then you should consider our lawn top dressing mix, which we supply in Hertfordshire, Essex and Suffolk as well as Cambridgeshire. This loam blend includes sharp sand and peat that will encourage grass, whether it’s being grown from turf or seedlings.

If you need to place a bulk order, remember we can deliver to you. Our regular areas include Newmarket, Huntingdon, Royston and Saffron Walden, but we can arrange for deliveries further afield. For more details, click here.

Advantages of Laying New Turf in Spring

Although new turf can also be laid down in the autumn, there are plenty of advantages to creating a fresh lawn during March and April – and preparation work should start before that. Here Madingley Mulch, a leading turf supplier in the Cambridge area, explain why you should really be thinking about it now if you want a lawn which is ready for summer use.

 

The Weather Should be Good Enough

First and foremost, check the forecasts because you want to avoid any sharp frosts which could damage the grass. You also want it to be dry enough to work outside for a day or two.

Don’t worry though if there are any April showers on the way as this could save you the job of watering the turf in the early days. However, if it is reasonably dry, then you should water it daily for between two and four weeks.

 

It Will Promote Root Growth

The milder conditions (and hopefully the right amount of moisture) will help the roots of the grass to become established before the harsher summer weather comes along. The soil itself will be warmer, which also helps promote root growth.

 

You Can Enjoy it in Summer

If you lay the turf in autumn, you then have to wait until the following year before you can fully enjoy it. However, by doing it in the spring, you should see a more immediate return on your investment as you and your family can enjoy it during the summer.

 

Doing the Groundwork – Why You Should Start Now

Before you even think about rolling the turf out, you should prepare the soil you are going to lay the turf on. This means weeding the soil thoroughly and turning or rotating it before digging in some well-rotted compost, mulch or soil improver, which we sell to customers in Essex, Suffolk and Hertfordshire as well as Cambridgeshire. These include our exclusive products Denise’s Delight or Tony’s Tonic.

Don’t be tempted to use any weedkiller, though, as residual traces of this could remain in the soil after you lay the turf, which could discourage healthy grass root growth. If possible, leave the soil to settle for several days – the longer the better. Also, get the soil level by walking across it in all directions (you can also use a spirit level as a check). Follow this by raking the top layer in all directions.

Once you have bought the turf, make sure you lay it quickly – ideally within 24 hours of purchase. This is because if it remains rolled up, it will quickly discolour and lose some of its strength.

 

Laying the Turf

Start in a corner and avoid stepping on the exposed soil – use planks or boards if necessary. Keep a bucket of soil to hand to add or remove soil as necessary to ensure the ground is level.

When it’s fully laid, spread a thin mixture of sand and soil or compost into any minor gaps – this helps the rolls knit together and establish quickly. Then water the newly-laid turf well and resist the temptation to walk on it because if you do this during the first few days. It is particularly important to do this if you are laying it in the spring – if you lay it in autumn the grass roots usually have more time to establish themselves.

 

Madingley Mulch – Turf Supplier in Cambridge

At Madingley Mulch we stock high-quality turf that has been grown locally in 1m rolls, which you can order here.

We offer you the choice of home delivery or you can come and collect it from us. In addition, we also stock a range of garden tools which could come in handy when you are laying your turf. If you have any questions, you can call us directly on 01954 212144.

Planning for the Year Ahead on Your Allotment

Allotments have seen a big boom in recent years, kickstarted by the recent coronavirus lockdowns, when they provided some much-needed outdoor therapy for people who might otherwise have been stuck indoors.  And, of course, they help with increased cost of living, as they enable gardeners to grow their own fruit and veg.

The key to getting the most out of your plot is to plan ahead. Here Madingley Mulch, who offer allotment supplies to gardeners in Essex, Suffolk and our home county of Cambridgeshire; provide you with a month-by-month take at what should be your priorities for the coming year if you are growing your own.

February

This is the month you ought to start working over your soil, to prepare it for the growing season. While a trusty spade and fork will help drain and aerate the soil, you can give nature a helping hand with some organic matter such as mulch.

You may also be able to start the growing process in a propagator (for example, for artichokes and broccoli), equally if you planted them at the correct time (in the autumn) you may have some kale, lettuce or rocket which is now ready to be harvested.

March

The soil preparation process should continue, and this should be the month you tackle any weeds which have survived the winter. If you get on top of them now, they won’t be a problem for the rest of the year. Some seedlings can be sown now too, such as carrots, peas, radishes and broad beans.

April

This is the latest you can plant out asparagus and artichokes. Aubergines and tomatoes should be planted now too as they need a long growing season. All your potato seedlings should also be in the ground by the end of the month.

You may need to thin out some of the seedlings you originally planted last month if they are growing too close together. And keep weeding – particularly perennials such as brambles, nettles and thistles.

May

You can ‘earth up’ your potatoes this month (a process where you add some soil near the base as this will increase the length of underground stems that will bear potatoes – as well as smother any weeds).

If you planted any lettuce, spring onions, broccoli, cabbage, spinach or radishes in the early spring, then you can start harvesting and enjoying them now. You can also sow beans this month (either dwarf, climbing and runners), although you may need supports such as bamboo in place, particularly if the weather isn’t particularly good.

June

Some vegetables you can replant every month, these include beetroot, radishes and lettuce.

You can still plant out beans this month, as well as courgettes, pumpkins, squashes and sweetcorn.

Although you shouldn’t have to worry about frosts for a few months, the seasonal variations offered by Mother Nature may mean you have to start thinking about watering. Remember a good soak may be better than a sprinkle and prioritise anything that’s been planted out recently.

August

Lots of crops can be harvested in August, including carrots, runner beans, beetroot, globe artichokes, cucumbers, and courgettes. And you can still sow some vegetables – including lettuce (but keep them out of direct sunlight), rocket and spring onions.

If you are going on holiday, give your plants a really big soak before you go away (or get your neighbour to take on the job – they may also be able to harvest some fruit and veg while you are away).

September

Onions, potatoes, runner beans, and courgettes can all be harvested and eaten this month. You can also start thinking about sowing for winter and spring next year – such as leafy vegetables like spinach and spring cabbages, as well as broad beans and peas for early harvests next year.

October

This should be the month you harvest the last of any runner beans or courgettes you have planted, as well as (appropriately, given that it’s Halloween) any pumpkins which should have been planted in late May or early June. If your main crops have finished for the season, and the plot is relatively empty, then you may want to consider laying down some soil conditioners or improvers.

November

This is a good month for planting garlic, onions or shallots, although they may need some protection from the winter weather.  It’s also a good time to prune any fruit bushes you have grown, as they will effectively be dormant until next year.

December

If you have planted any parsnips, leeks or winter cabbages then now is the time to harvest them – hopefully just in time for Christmas dinner. Should you have any fruit trees on your plot, now is a good time to prune them. It’s also a good month to make sure your tools are in good order, ready for the year ahead – cleaning them, oiling them and sharpening them (possibly replacing them too). It is well worth planning out the year ahead too.

Allotment Supplies in Essex from Madingley Mulch

At Madingley Mulch we have a comprehensive selection of products to help you all year round. We have a range of composts and soil conditioners which we stock at our Cambridge base. These include our exclusive products, Tony’s Tonic and Denise’s Delight. All of them will improve your soil’s quality and ensure you get full value from your plot.

Our online shop also has a range of high-quality garden tools, as well as metal builder’s barrows which should be strong enough to meet all your needs. If you have any questions, you can call us on 01954 212144.

There’s Still Time to Buy Your Christmas Tree from Madingley Mulch

If you are still looking for Christmas trees for sale in Cambridgeshire, then look no further – at Madingley Mulch we are stocking our usual range of Norway Spruce and Nordmann Fir trees.

The Nordmann fir is named after 19^th century Finnish zoologist and botanist Alexander von Nordmann (1803-1866), who discovered the tree in Eastern Europe. It has a very glossy foliage and doesn’t shed its needles much, which will come in handy when you start clearing up in the New Year.

The Norway Spruce is an evergreen conifer which can grow up to 40m in height (although the ones we are selling aren’t that tall!) and will last for up to 1,000 years. It’s more of a ‘natural’ tree than the Nordmann, with a full green foliage which means it really smells like a Christmas tree. However, it is more prone to shedding its needles, so you’ll want to keep some slippers handy at home and be ready to get the vacuum cleaner out in the New Year.

Whichever variety you want, you can buy one at Madingley Mulch. For a full list of prices and heights, check out our seasonal offers page here.

Key Advantages of Using Dark Paving Slabs in Your Garden

Patios come in all shapes and style, not to mention sizes. There’s plenty to choose from when it comes to colours as well – whether you are looking at natural stone or porcelain slabs for your garden. Many people opt for a traditional colour such as sandstone, or a shade of brown or grey – but what about something darker, such as black?

Here Madingley Mulch, who supply black paving slabs from our base near Cambridge, look at the advantages of choosing a dark-coloured stone for your garden patio.

 

They Look Stylish

Although sleek and modern, dark paving slabs are still effectively a neutral colour, just as white (or lighter) colours are. This means they won’t detract from the colourful plants, furniture or anything else you put on the patio – see the above picture for some inspiration. They can be used to create a great contrast in your garden, adding depth and dimension to your outdoor space.

Dark colours (not necessarily just black) are often associated with modernism and minimalism, giving your patio a striking look that will really make it stand out. However, the darker colours also have a timeless appeal that will suit any garden and home.

You don’t have to go fully black, either – you could mix and match dark patio slabs with other, lighter-coloured slabs for a really striking effect or pattern. And dark slabs – just like dark paint in a room – can make your garden seem cosier (whereas light colours may make it appear more spacious).

 

They Show the Dirt Less

The darkness of the slabs means that, if there is any dirt on them, it won’t show up immediately. It also means that any imperfections, such as cracks and scratches, won’t show up as easily.

If they are part of a porcelain paving range, then they are low maintenance, slip-resistant and highly symmetrical, as they are produced in a factory. However, you should still sweep any debris such as leaves away regularly and it’s always a good idea to perform a good thorough clean once every few months. Warm water and a soft cloth or mop should also be effective; for a longer-term solution, try a pressure washer for a deep clean.

 

They are Climate-Friendly

Unlike white- or lighter-coloured slabs, darker patio slabs soak up sunlight and absorb heat very well, so this means they are ideal for colder climates or during the winter months and will mean you have to spend less energy and money heating your garden while you’re outside.

They are particularly good for areas which get plenty of sun, although bear in mind that you shouldn’t tread on them barefoot, otherwise you may be in for a painful surprise.

 

They Are Versatile

You needn’t restrict yourself to just using dark patio slabs on the patio – you can use them on paths and walkways, swimming pool surrounds, or as a base for firepits and chimineas.

The last couple of examples will really give your garden a night-time glow – and the dark slabs will absorb the heat from the flames while still remaining resistant to temperature changes – making them a great option.

 

Black Paving Slabs near Cambridge from Madingley Mulch

At Madingley Mulch, we can supply Cathedral Anthracite (pictured) – it’s part of our Avant Garde range of porcelain paving which we can deliver to customers in Cambridgeshire, Suffolk, Essex and further afield.

You can also opt for Mercury Grey, Himalayan White, Quartz Light Grey, Quartz White and Kandla Porcelain – you can check out the full range here – and remember we have plenty of natural stone varieties as well, including Indian Sandstone, Rutland Paving and Old Grey Courtyard Paving.

We appreciate that all slabs are heavy, particularly if you have a bulk order (although they are available as individually packed tiles), so we can deliver them across East Anglia. We now operate a sliding scale of charges; for more details see our deliveries page – basically the closer you live, the less you pay for delivery

You can also call us on 01954 212144 if you have any questions about our range of patio slabs, or any of our products.